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Mole preparation

The community is best known for the preparation of mole, a traditional sauce that comes in a variety of flavors. Modern mole is derived from an pre-hispanic preparation called “chilmulli,” which in Nahuatl means “chili pepper sauce” During the colonial period, this sauce was modified mostly by adding ingredients such as nuts, peanuts, sesame seeds and spices such as cinnamon. While the flavors have multiplied and changed, the consistency of the sauce has remained the same.^[1] Almost 92% of the community’s population makes a living related to the preparation and sale of the sauce.^[1] The moles of San Pedro Atocpan are not made in factories but rather in small family-owned enterprises.^[5] Moles of different flavors, smells, colors and textures are made, but the specialty is “mole almendrado” (almond mole), which was invented here and made with between 26 and 28 ingredients, always with a base of three chili peppers: mulato, pasilla and ancho. The recipe is well-guarded.^[6] Many of these small businesses have networked to find ways to buy the more than twenty ingredients most moles need, such as chili peppers from Zacatecas, eliminating the need for middlemen. Each family in the town has its own recipes for the various types of moles. The family of Guadalupe Rios, for example, adds apple to her moles, presumably to avoid digestive problems.^[1] Seventy years ago, life in San Pedro Atocpan was similar to just about any other rural community growing corn and beans. At that time only four neighborhoods prepared mole for town festivals: Panchimalco, Ocotitla, Nuztla and Tula, but those who prepared it were generally prominent women in their communities. In the 1940’s, one family had the idea of making the long trek to Mexico City proper to sell some of their mole at the La Merced market. It was successful, but they brought with them only two kilos, since it was made by hand grinding the ingredients. With the paving of the main road (now the Mexico City-Oaxtepec highway) and the introduction of electricity in 1947, it became easier to make and transport mole to the city. Since then, a sauce that was traditionally made for family use became a commodity for the town. The town now produces 60% of the mole made in Mexico and 89% of the mole consumed in Mexico City,^[5] adding up to between 28,000 and 30,000 tons of mole produced each year.

Community attractions

The community has two main churches: the Parish of San Pedro Apostol and the Church of Señor de la Misericordias. The Parish of San Pedro Apostol is a Franciscan church that was dedicated on 28 August 1680 and declared a national monument in 1933. Its patron of Saint Peter is celebrated on 29 of June of each year. The other church, Señor de las Misericordias (Lord of Mercies) is a modern building, dedicated to an image of Christ that is venerated in all of Milpa Alta. This church hosts a festival to this image each May that brings people from other parts of the delegation as well as the neighboring states of Morelos and Mexico State.^[4]

[edit] National Festival of Mole

The National Festival of Mole is hosted at the location each year in October.^[1] It began in 1977 with the specific aim of promoting the town's product. The first festival was not held in the San Pedro Atocpan proper, but in the neighborhood of Yenhuitlalpan with only four restaurants participating. It was held not in October but rather in May to coincide with the festival in honor of the Señor de las Misericordias. However, this caused problems with people who did not like the idea of taking advantage of a religious festival for commercial purposes.^[6] So the mole festival was moved to October, where it has remained since. The annual festival has crafts, food, traditional Mexican music, carnival rides and other fair attractions.